Los Portales is a basement bar under Plaza Recoletas in Pamplona's old town, reached by a flight of stairs down from the square. It calls itself the home of the city's LGBTIQ+ party, and that is roughly the role it plays: this is the venue the scene organises itself around, with straight friends welcome alongside.
The room is low and compact and it fills up fast. There are DJ sets, drag shows and karaoke, plus the bar's own talent contest, Los Portalent, which runs in heats to a final on the small stage. Neon and vogue parties turn up in the programme too. Tardeo, the Spanish habit of going out in the late afternoon, matters here as much as the late nights.
A terrace on the square gives you somewhere to stand when the cellar gets warm.